By Kristine Hansen | Photo courtesy of Travel Wisconsin; pictured: Old Towne Beer Hall & Bier Stube
Fish fries are woven so deeply into Wisconsin’s food culture that many families have developed a favorite venue in which to enjoy them. It’s a place they return to again and again on Friday nights for fried fish, along with the traditional sides like coleslaw, potato pancakes with applesauce, rye bread, tartar sauce and lemon wedges.
The fish is typically smelt, haddock, cod, perch, walleye or bluegill and can be ordered broiled, or beer-battered and deep-fried.
Travelers, too, enjoy sampling a fish fry, as it’s a literal taste of the Dairy State’s unique culinary scene.
A quick history lesson about Wisconsin fish fries starts with the Catholic church. Many of Wisconsin’s earliest immigrants during the 19th century were from Poland and Germany, and also devout Catholics. When their churches back home asked them to avoid eating red meat on Fridays, they complied — and once in Wisconsin, turned to a convenient alternative: freshwater fish culled from nearby lakes.
The unofficial fish fry season is the season of Lent, which spans 40 days, beginning on Ash Wednesday and extending to Easter. That’s because abstaining from meat on Friday is part of a religious devotion, suddenly making a seafood dinner a popular idea. Although it’s worth noting that fish fries don’t stop at Easter, nor are they only available during Lent. You can order these at a restaurant year-round. It’s also not considered solely a religious tradition. More than half of all restaurants in Wisconsin serve fish fries, as much a part of the state’s culinary culture as Old Fashioneds, brats and cheese.
If you want to check out a fish fry, you’ve got tons of options.
All types of restaurants — from neighborhood taverns to trendy chef-driven concepts — serve a fish fry as part of their menu.
The only limitation is the day of the week: most only serve fish fries on Friday evenings. Dining on a fish fry here comes with all the necessary sides and, like all other nights of the week, provides a place to linger and not feel rushed. Some of the longest-standing supper clubs in Wisconsin with fish fries are Five O’Clock Steakhouse in Milwaukee, going strong since 1948; Hob Nob in Racine, dating back to 1954; and The Del Bar, now on its third generation in Lake Delton. The Village Supper Club on Lake Delavan is one of the longest-running supper clubs in the state, and was in danger of closing forever when its owners put the property up for sale in 2021. Fortunately, new owners snapped it up — and you can continue to enjoy a fish fry there, paired with a lake view.
Another popular type of venue for a fish fry, and one with historic ambiance, is a restaurant with German roots that’s been in business for several decades. You’ll find plenty of those in the Milwaukee area, including Kegel’s Inn in West Allis, where the wood-paneled dining room with hand-painted murals replicates what you’d find in Germany even today. John Kegel, an immigrant from Austria, established this restaurant in 1924 and, 102 years later it’s still a popular destination for locals. Fourth-generation owners Julian and Stephanie Kegel maintain an outdoor beer garden in front of the restaurant to further channel the Bavarian vibes. Bavarian Bierhaus in Glendale also sports a beer-hall ambiance, as well as a fish fry on Friday nights. Closer to Madison, Dorf Haus Supper Club in Sauk City blends a supper-club ambiance with historic German roots. Then, in downtown Madison, there’s Essen Haus, with live polka music on occasion, as well as German dishes like Weinerschnitzel, along with a Friday fish fry. Hubbard Park Beer Garden in Shorewood hosts a Friday fish fry year-round, with indoor service and live polka music during the winter months and, between May and October, served in the wooded setting outdoors.
In recent years, ethnic restaurants around the state have launched fish fries, blending their cuisine styles with this Wisconsin staple. These provide a fun, flavorful tweak on a traditional meal. For example, Hue in Milwaukee, which is a Vietnamese restaurant, skews from the typical cod or halibut for something completely different. Beer-battered swai — a freshwater fish from Vietnam — is served with garlic fried rice and Asian slaw. Also in Milwaukee, Café El Soul continues its love for crafting Puerto Rican and Mexican fare with its twist on a fish fry. Located within the United Community Center, this is served on Friday evenings. Three pieces of either fried or broiled fish are alongside either a salad or French fries, plus Puerto Rican rice.
Many Irish restaurants and bars, too, serve a fish fry. While they tend to stick to the traditional meal, you can of course tack on a Guinness or an Irish side like bread pudding or Irish poutine (fries topped with cheese curds, corned beef and gravy). Mulligan’s Irish Pub & Grill in Franklin, near Milwaukee, is one example. Their fish fry is prepared using haddock, walleye, perch or bluegill. Danny Boy’s Irish Pub in Horicon also offers a Friday fish fry, starting at noon, which is in line with the Irish pub’s all-day service. In addition to the regular fish choices, there’s cod bites, which are breaded and deep-fried, similar to other bar food.
If you’re in a hurry or prefer take-out, some restaurants around Wisconsin offer a drive-thru for fish fry orders. This includes The Stella Hotel & Ballroom in Kenosha; The Packing House in Milwaukee, near Mitchell International Airport; Kegel’s Inn in West Allis; and Steny’s Lake Country in Pewaukee.
The perfect pairing with a fish fry can also be a drink with Wisconsin roots.
The state’s official cocktail is a Brandy Old Fashioned, which is a tweak on this classic cocktail. Ordering a Brandy Old Fashioned means it’s made with brandy, cherries on a skewer, orange slice and bitters — and either “Brandy sweet” (topped off with lemon-lime soda, such as Sprite or 7Up) or “Brandy sour” (topped with Squirt or a sour mix).
Or, you can order a pint or stein of beer courtesy of a local microbrewery. Even if it’s not from a German brewery, most of the state’s beer barons emigrated from there, including Jacob Best, Sr., responsible for founding Pabst Brewing Company; Joseph Schlitz, who founded Schlitz Brewing Company; and Valentin Blatz, of the now-closed Valentin Blatz Brewing Company. That tradition of making Wisconsin a prolific producer of beer continues today, with a new crop of brewers. A century later, beer continues to be the perfect drink to sip with a fish fry, creating a timeless, nostalgic meal that’s distinctly Wisconsin.